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Nimue, Tango and Chantey V |
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Maybe? |
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Sailor bread! |
Petersburg
A challenging stretch of water, the long, narrow, current-ridden straight of the Wrangell Narrows, had to be undertaken before we arrived at the sheltered harbour of Petersburg. Originally settled by Norwegian mariners, the town prides itself on its’ unique heritage. A replica of a Viking ship stands proudly amid Norwegian shops and posters advertising dances and festivals from the homeland. Wilkomen! The old cannery is now silent but the vast fishing fleet appears busy and prosperous. Clouds have moved in and spires of snow-topped peaks hint at the massive glaciers awaiting us around the corner.
Chantey V will be moving on to Hobart to anchor for the night in preparation for a run up Tracy Arm to the Sawyer glacier. Nimue and Tango will be a day or two behind so we bid them adieu with G & T’s in the cockpit, and a loaf of homemade Sailor Bread.
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Viking wannabee |
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There everywhere! |
Tracy Arm
Tracy Arm proved to be a major highlight of our trip thus far. Our first iceberg appeared off the bow even before we entered the arm. Its’ massive, aqua-marine coloured bulk shone iridescent in the sun. The spectrum of crystal blues, turquoise, and silver glinting from the light. Two bald eagles perched sentinel atop its’ jagged peaks. We passed and hailed MV Castaway -another OCC boat - as we crossed the bar into Tracey Arm. Once within the fiord snow-encrusted mountains loomed on every side as dodged ‘bergie bits’, huge chunks that break off the ice bergs. As we neared the final curve in the channel the enormous South Sawyer Glacier appeared ahead, its’ shimmering presence indescribably beautiful! We killed the motor and drifted silently watching for calving, crags of glacier ice breaking off into the sea. Seals with their pups sunbathed on the ice flows. Daragh snagged a chunk of berg and we toasted the moment with beers and glacier ice cubes!
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Icy eagle perch outside Tracey Arm |
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The money shot |
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Bergie Bits and Beer! |
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Ice sculptures |
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The ice queen herself |
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Ice with that beer? |
Juneau
One month to the day we left Victoria we are now tied to the dock at Harris Harbour, Juneau after a nail-biting run under the Douglas-Juneau bridge with only three feet clearance above the mast at mid tide! I couldn’t bear to look! There at the dock was our old friend Nikki Germain from Mexico days to take a line - she had spotted us coming under the bridge! It was a great reunion with Nikki and John, from SV Seychelles - our buddy boat down the Pacific coast eight years ago. Lots of stories to share as we toured the town. Juneau has managed a successful mix of cruise ships and local charm with its’ majestic mountain scenery as a backdrop. At the top of the gondola ride at Mt. Roberts we enjoyed a panoramic view of snowy mountain ranges, deep valleys and yes, three cruise ships docked below with tourists streaming down the docks. You still have a sense of the old gold rush days as you ramble down the wooden boardwalks. Tomorrow we will rendezvous with old friends from the past, John and Marian, who call Auke Bay near Juneau their home.
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Juneau whale |
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Gondola view from 2,000 ft AGL |
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Passing us out! |
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John & Nikki's Place, Juneau |
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