Mexican Riviera - > Hualtulco update

Zihuatanejo

The idylic setting of Zihuatanejo lived up to its’ exotic name with a mound of soft green hills encircling a protected harbour. At night it simply sparkles with the lamps from the houses that reach right to the top all around. Although it has grown rapidly into a large city, it still has that small town feeling on the cobblestone streets and markets of the old town. We arrived on a boisterous overnighter from Maruata, nursing a jury rigged throttle which had broken inside the binnacle along the way. It was the last day of Sailfest, a mostly cruiser-run education fundraiser for the children of Zihuatanejo,and met up with cruiser friends on the boardwalk, Bob (Kuan Yin 1), Ian and Ellen (Kasasa), as well as Debbie and Mark (Younger Girl). We spent a couple weeks waiting for now 3 boat parts (a familiar theme it seems), swimming and strolling the beaches, and nibbling tacos. A great discovery was the lovely Playa de Ropa beach, a dinghy ride across from the Z-Town anchorage - pure white sand and clear warm waters, so salty even Georgie floats! While walking the dog we met a friendly Vancouver couple, Madelaine and Nils, down for a week of sun and escape from the gloom, with whom we enjoyed chatting and sharing travel stories.

Apart from the charms of this lively and unpretentious city by the sea, the highlight has been playing our music and jammin’ with Liz and Chris on Espiritu. With Chris and Daragh on violin and mandolins and Liz and I on guitars, as well as flute, we make quite a musical quartet. It brought to mind the duets of Captain Jack Aubrey and Dr.Maturin of the Patrick OBrien maritime novel series (ie. Master and Commander), Jack on cello and Stephen on violin, playing classical duets well into the night.

Fun in Acapulco!

At last our parts arrived and we heaved-ho and set `Otto``(the autopilot) on track for Acapulco. We med-tied to the slip at the very toni, Acapulco Yacht Club, compliments of Royal Vic, for a couple of days reciprocals, and a well-needed scrub down (boat and crew)! Lounging poolside, Daragh recalled his early memory of Acapulco, as a wee lad growing up in Ireland, and reading the dreamy Hollywood movie posters at the local cinema....`Èlvis Presley in Fun in Acapulco``. Wow! Intrigued, we looked it up on YouTube, and watched with glee as a very buff Elvis strutted his stuff to a Hollywood set of Mexican senoritas, breaking into song at every opportunity.  Later we followed the movie trail to El Mirador Hotel, Cliffside to observe the famous Divers of La Quebrada plunging hundreds of feet down sheer, narrow canyons to the surging waters below. Stupendo!

Puerto Angel

An angel actually did appear to us at the cove of Puerto Angel, by the name of Antonio, as we were attempting to raise anchor. The anchor was firmly wedged to the bottom, and was not budging no matter what. While we were tugging and scratching our heads, out of the water appeared a snorkeler, Antonio, swimming across the bay home. We waved him down and he cheerfully agreed to dive down 35ft. and check out the problem. He surfaced momentarily with a large mass of old mooring line and kelp, and quickly cut it away with a hacksaw. With their amazing prowess in the water, and incredible lung capacity, these Mexican pescadores make it look so easy. As soon as we were cut loose the wind carried us off, waving gratefully to our very own Mexican angel!

Once again we are ever thankful to Charlie and Margo, authors of Charlie’s Charts, for their excellent guidebook. Puerto Angel was not only a beautiful and serene haven, but also a most hospitable anchorage with kindly ‘mermen’ to help out in times of need

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Ever wonder how the Pescadores get the Pangas parked so high up the beach? Check this out and you may be able to retire your dinghy wheels!

Huatulco, La Cruceita

 The cruisers are hunkering down here at Marina Chaue, Huatulco, awaiting a weather window to cross the Gulf. We passed the hot, langourous days visiting the darling town/village of LaCruceita, and the lush greenery of the town square. The town caters to the cruise ships which dock at Santa Cruz Bahia nearby, so there is a sense of understated affluence, not often seen in these difficult economic times. The next leg of the trip could be a bit rocky. The formidable reputation of the Gulf of Tehuantepec leaves us with a slight trepidation, since the winds sweeping over the Isthmus maintain a yearly average of force 6 on the Beaufort Scale, and can actually blow you out to sea! The crossing means two days overnight and possibly, a long, bumpy ride. The map below probably expresses the situation best.....

  

I am sailing, I am sailing,  home again, across the sea.

I am sailing, stormy waters, to be near you, to be free.

Can you hear me, can you hear me, through the dark night, far away,

I am dying, forever trying, to be with you, to be free.

Rod Stewart