'On the road again,
Going places that I've never been,
Seeing things that I may never see again,
Oh I can't wait to be on the road again'
Willie Nelson
The Mariners Road that is.....It's day one of our Alaska Cruise, and three months exploring both new, and familiar locations with plenty of adventures in store for the crew of Chantey V. Our first leg of the journey includes Captain Daragh, first mates Cathy and sister Tes, and salty dog Georgie Porgie.
Under glorious skies we dropped the hook in scenic Montague Harbour, Galiano Island. Tomorrow we aim for Dodd Narrows and a BBQ at idyllic Newcastle Island, Nanaimo. And so it begins....
'I'd like to be, under the sea, in an octopus's garden in the shade.'
May 10- Our plans for the trip were almost sabotaged when our beloved Perkins engine blew a seal and packed it in two weeks before take off! After much deliberation, and a touch of the Luck O' the Irish, we managed to install a brand new Beta 38 just in the nick of time, thanks to Ben Gartside and his boys, and were happily underway and on schedule for departure.
Newcastle to Jedidiah Island
At Newcastle Island we met up with the mid-island chapter of the Bluewater Cruisers and happy hour get-together on Protection Island . The Ocean Cruising club was also descending on Nanaimo Harbour as a crushing company of sailors including ourselves, rendezvoused for our trip north to Alaska. Anne and Michael Hartshorn on Nimue and Steve and Vicky Austin on Tango joined in for a quick raft up before setting sail for Jedidiah Island. After a pit stop for a hearty breakfast with sister Mary we were off again to Jedidiah and Comox BC.
A brief stop in Comox was in order surrounded by a panoramic vista of snow-capped mountains. A tasty dinner at the local pub was followed by a good visit with old friends David and Sandy from the Mainroad days. We tucked in early ready for a quick getaway in the morning to make Seymour Narrows and sleepy little Port Neville by nightfall.
It was an early morning start bucking strong currents in Johnstone Strait as we motored out in to a pea-souper of a day, shrouded in heavy fog and drizzle. A school of porpoises guided our way into the tiny enclave of Telegraph Cove. The red clapboard buildings of the old sawmill town appeared through the mist as we entered the harbour and docked, the sole occupant at the marina so early in the season.
Crossing the Bar
"Sunset and Evening Star,
And one clear call for me,
And may there be no moaning of the bar,
When I put out to sea,
For though from out are bourne of time and place,
The flood may bare me far,
I hope to see my pilot's face
When I have crossed the bar."
Alfred Lord Tennyson
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| Telegraph Cove |
Alert Bay to Sointula
Our plan was to stop by Sointula on Malcolm Island to see sailor friends Trish and Jim Bowen. On route we docked at historic Alert Bay and viewed the impressive First Nations Museum there, including a display on Chief Dan George and his many contributions to his people.
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| Chief Dan George |
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| Alert Bay |
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| Residential School Door |
The clouds lifted as we slipped in to our berth in sunny Sointula on Malcolm Island, aptly named 'Place of Harmony', and so it was. Jim and Trish, and neighbour Sarsfield Nagle, joined us for drinks in the cockpit. Later they invited us home to their delightful newly-constructed house overlooking the breathtaking vista of Rough Bay. As daylight broke we hoisted anchor in preparation for a run to Port Hardy, Tes's departure and crew change. Brother John was coming aboard from a just completed hike across Cape Scott National Park.
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Jim, Tricia and Sarsfield on Sointula
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"As long as we can sail away,
There'll be wind in the canyon,
Moon on the rise,
As long as we can sail away."
Neil Young
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| Ocean Cruising Club gang at Shearwater |
Port Hardy to Shearwater
With Johnny safely stowed away in the V berth up front we met the crews of our fellow Ocean Cruising Club boats, Tango, Nimue, and Merlin for dinner at the pub and a hearty fish n' chipper. Lots of banter comparing notes for the crossing of Cape Caution next morning. As luck would have it the winds were favourable southwesters and we motor-sailed past the cape under blue skies, relieved to put the dreaded cape behind us. Anchored snugly in Fury Cove for the evening we dinghied ashore and explored the tiny island lined with picturesque white shell beaches.
Our cruising company of OCC boats descended on the cheery sports fishing hub of Shearwater early in the afternoon. Hot showers ensued and then a tasty halibut and burger dinner on the pub patio in the sunshine. Bald eagles circled overhead and the lapping waves at the dock lulled us to sleep. A long passage down Princess Royal Channel led us into Green Inlet. The porpoises kept us company diving in our wake and we spotted a killer whale slapping his tail playfully near the shoreline, before stern tying in Green Inlet. We have two more long passages through a menagerie of channels and fiords before we arrive at the bustling port of Prince Rupert on Thursday.
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| Fury Cove |
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| Johnny on watch |
'So much time to make up
everywhere you turn,
Time we have wasted on the way,
So much water moving
underneath the bridge,
Let the water come and carry us away.'
Crosby , Stills and Nash
Hartley Bay to Prince Rupert
Hartley Bay is a remote First Nations fishing village with wooden boardwalks connecting the townsfolk. There are no cars but people drive small atv's so a peaceful atmosphere pervades the village. The fog and rain lifted next morning and we were off again, this time for Kumealon Inlet.
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| Fishing fever |
