Cabo san Lucas to Hilo, Hawaii

Sure it will be a wonderful cruise............

Job one was to provision for the 21 (or more?) day trip to Hilo. It took two trips to the supermarket plus sides trips to stock up on water. Coleridge's rime was pasted on the water book as a grim reminder of what running out looked like. Amazingly we found places to store it all with the aft cabin doubling as a "bodega" for the fruit and veg in baskets. We departed heavily laden for a mini shakedown cruise to Cabo san Lucas - and of course the final night out on land for a long time. We had an excellent meal at a Brazilian restaurant along with enough wine to sooth any lingering doubts about the voyage at hand.

Los Arcos at Cabo

We departed Cabo at noon and soon were sailing past the busy tourist traffic at iconic Los Arcos headland. The wind picked up as we cleared the tip of Cabo and it was reef #1 time already. We were happy to be sailing fast but we were way south of the course we wanted. It certainly was rough with the washing machine effect of wind waves at ninety degrees to the swell. Little did we know that this rolling would persist most of the way to Hawaii. We did not have much of an appetite but managed to down the prepared meals John had cooked ahead of time. We settled into our 3 on and 6 off watch routine which worked very well for us.

Helga takes charge

The wind stayed fairly steady out of the North West, driving us further south but only requiring two hours of engine run most nights to keep the batteries up. Six days out we deployed our Hydrovane (Helga) which worked well as long as the apparent wind was nine knots or more. This also saved a lot of power compared to running the auto pilot (Otto).

Four strands left!

The morning of day 7 John called me to come quickly to the mast. His first light rig inspection revealed the mast baby stay had failed and was just hanging on by 4 strands. The Genoa was furled and we jury rigged a strop around the first spreader with an old halyard to the bow and then back to the lazy genoa winch. This restored the mast bend and re-tensioned the the aft lower stays. We got an email out to Blackline to organize a replacement and to confirm the stability our our jury rig.

Jury rigged stay installed

We got fairly regular connections with our SSB and kept our grib files and Pacific surface forecast up to date.  Connie and Peter sent us updates as well on our Delorme inReach. This device was invaluable for instant SMS text messages to friends and family dependably anytime day or night. We also used it for the spot forecast service from Ocens which is a very worthwhile addition - similar to the bouy weather format.

Wing on wing stormsail

The wind finally veered to the east and allowed us to make some decent VMG for Hilo. Next we were all downwind, wing on wing with the main and genoa, substituting the spinnaker in daylight when the wind eased. By
day 16 we deployed the storm jib alongside the poled out genoa and made hull speed, easily handled by Helga all day and night for the next week.

Nice jicima salad Al!

The food was excellent for the trip with Al and John outdoing each other with creative meals on the dwindling fresh food supplies. Al caught a beautiful ma-hi ma-hi and made a delicious ceviche followed by grilled fillets for dinner. Captains hour was eagerly awaited each day with some great appies to go with the nightly beer  or G and T. Strict water management eased mid trip when we realized we were well under the 10 litre daily allowance.

Champagne all around at Hilo

Stern tied in Radio Bay, Hilo

We arrived at Hilo at noon on Saurday, 21 days for the trip. Many thanks to CBP officers Valdez and Foss for clearing us in and sparing us a week-end waiting on the boat.
We enjoyed a few days together checking out the big island including a helicopter volcano tour and going snorkeling at Captain Cook. All in all a great trip with two of the best crew - Al and John - that you could hope to get.

The final track - 2,500 NM

"And it is an interesting biological fact that all of us have, in our veins the exact same percentage of salt in our blood that exists in the ocean, and, therefore, we have salt in our blood, in our sweat, in our tears. We are tied to the ocean. And when we go back to the sea, whether it is to sail or to watch it, we are going back from whence we came. "

— President John F. Kennedy

Sea of Cortez to Cabo

     A brisk sail down the Sea of Cortez brought us to La Paz for the haul out and bottom painting, and then San Jose del Cabo where we will start reprovisioning for the Clipper route to Hawaii, and eventually home to Victoria, BC. We tucked in to the anchorage at Cabo for a few days of party monster antics in the bay with sea doos and speed boats spraying us with waves every few minutes, and two-for-one giant margaritas on shore. We picked up John Duggan, Irish mariner extra-ordinaire and Al Kitchen, our very own Bluewater Fleet captain, back in San Jose del Cabo, to make up a capable threesome for the twenty one (or so) days Pacific crossing to Hawaii. I wished them all a "Buen Viaje!" and took the short cut home via Westjet to Victoria. We shall meet again in a months time at the port city of Hilo, Hawaii, ready for the next chapter on board Chantey V.

The Three Marineros plot strategy

Los Arcos, Cabo

SamuelTaylor Colridge

Isla Carmen, Loreto, Puerto Escondido

 

Bill and Michelle, SV Adagio 

A lumpy overnighter was in store as we crossed the Sea of Cortez to Isla Carmen. The brilliant spectacle of the burnt umber desert mountains, against the azure blue sea over white sand, glowed around us as we entered the bay. Anchored nearby were our new friends Bill and Michelle on power vessel Adagio. They invited us to go snorkeling on an old 120 ft. submerged wreck. We watched in awe as scores of multi-coloured fish darted in and out of the bones of the shipwreck. Afterwards we went ashore to check out an abandoned salt flats and processing camp. The crumbling buildings stood sentinel over another time; a rusted out child's wagon and bulldozer, a half-caved in medical office. Bill and Michelle invited us back to Adagio later for a yummy prawn supper with poblano sauce. The end of a perfect day on the sea. Off to Puerto Escondido in the morning, we shall miss our new-found companions.....till we meet again, Fair Winds!

Isla Carmen

     Puerto Escondido is a hurricane hole so many cruisers hang out here as they sail the Sea of Cortez. This is prime cruising ground with the painted desert cliffs towering above clear blue-green waters and pink and white sand. Tied to the mooring ball behind us was SV Full and Bye from Victoria, BC. We spent several days with old cruiser pals Anne and Dick touring the darling village of Loreto and catching up on past voyages, before making our way towards La Paz. The white slip of crescent beach of Bahia San Francisco awaited us. A sublime place where time stands still against the crimson hills and lapping waters.

Dick and Anne, SV Full and Bye
                                                        

Loreto street view

Loreto mission

Steinbeck's Canyon

San Francisco Bay

          "A painted cup of crimson dew,
            holds a flower just for you,
            Scarlett, pink and orange, too,
            Evening hides them from our view."

Mazatlan to Copper Canyon

Kelly and I at Plazuela Machado

    The entrance to the marina was the usual hair-raising spectacle with the dredging machine dominating the centre of the channel and waves crashing over the rocks on either side. But once through we settled in comfortably at the El Cid Marina to await our guest Kelly from Victoria. Unfortunately, it was almost Semana Santa, the biggest holiday season of the year, and the party atmosphere had already begun with the pounding beat of Mexican rap music from dawn til dusk.


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     Once known as the Jewel of the Pacific the old town of Mazatlan has been beautifully restored. It was good to revisit the Plazuela Machado and sit amidst the leafy courtyard once again. Kelly and I checked out some of the enchanting artisan galleries while Daragh had the pulpit reconfigured to accommodate our slip back home in Victoria. We trekked the five miles of endless beach along the Malecon and stopped for refreshments at the old Sheik Hotel, and the Sky Bar atop the retro Hotel Kensington with a spectacular view of the entire city.

A very Porky Pig!

Topolobampo and Copper Canyon

     An unexpected delight was the trip to Topolobampo and the Copper Canyon. The name sounds like something right out of Dr. Seus! We made the crossing from Mazatlan in a record time of 32 hours at 6.9 knots due to a one knot current boost and flat seas on route. The entrance is a long wide channel loaded with shallows, but was well-marked and relatively easy to navigate into well-kept and  very welcoming Palmira Marina.

Topolobampo

     We met Michelle and Bill on Adagio at the dock and we made up a nice foursome for our trip next morning to the Copper Canyon via the Chiahuahua Railway, affectionately known as El Chepe'. This hidden treasure is actually one of the world's great railway journeys with 37 bridges and 86 tunnels covering 653km and some of the most amazing mountain vistas anywhere, through the Sierra Madre.

The Raramuri selling basketry

El Chepe'

      El Chepe' has comfortable seating, air conditioning, and even a nice dining car. But the highlight is hanging out of the boxcars between the cars to enjoy the magical view with the wind in your face!
      We departed first of all at the rather ramshackle but spotlessly clean frontier town of Creel, home to Mexican cowboys and the Raramuri. These are the aboriginal people of Chiahuahua who often live in tiny huts or caves cut into the canyon. They dress in brilliantly coloured skirts and scarves, have their own language and quietly sell handmade basketry and wares to the tourists.

      The next day we rode a coach back to the Posada Mirador. The hotel is perched precariously on the edge of the immense canyon itself. Below you can see the tiny native huts and caves peppered around the canyon walls, like peering into the past. We took a gondola ride across the canyon. I was shocked to see a little urchin of a girl scamper up the rocks and jump between the massive boulders! It was of course, her 'back yard' but it was still very disturbing to observe, and hard to comprehend this way of life.

      The most impressive zip line in North America is also possibly right here plunging across the canyon ravines. After two days of hiking the trails and lounging on the deck mesmerized by the scenery, we prepared to take our leave back to the Divisadero train station. However, a group of protesters had blocked the railway to Creel due to some labour dispute. After a few uncertain hours a train was re-routed to take us for the long ride back to Los Mochis and Topolobampo, where we plan to cross the Sea of Cortez for Loreto.

 
 

La Cruz to Mazatlan

 

Mazatlan sunset

Touring Sayulita with Barb

Time is ticking away at La Cruz as we attend to the more common theme these days of boat repairs at sea. Currently we have a leak in the fuel injection pump which lost four quarts on the trip in to La Cruz in just 12 hours. Turns out it needs replacing which will keep us at dock for a spell longer than planned. We took the opportunity to visit Jos and Barb in nearby Sayulita. This darling surfer town is very popular with the gringos. A picturesque beach with artsy shops and coffee bars is a welcome change from the somewhat all-inclusive perfections of P.V. While we were there a mini windstorm blew up and sent sunbathers and merchants scurrying for cover.

Tomiko in the engine room

   At last the engine work rebuild is complete thanks to the speedy handiwork of Steve and Tomiko, and Mazatlan awaits. We will spend a week or two there with our friend Kelly, and raise a glass for the Emerald Isle on Paddy's Day!

Local Heroes; Simon Bolivar, Che Guevara and Bob Marley

                                     

"The monastery bells are softly ringing,
As twilight ends the long and sultry day,
In fragrant homes the village girls are singing,
Along the tranquil blue (Banderas) Bay."

Tenacatita Bay to La Cruz

From Los Hadas we traveled up the coast to the tranquil bay of Tenacatita, a great hang out for sailors chilling out before the return trip north at the end of the season to put their boats up. The surf here is quite daunting to go ashore, but worth the risk of getting pooped (swamped), to spend the day on the golden sand and clear waters. After doing our provisioning in the nearby mostly Gringo town of La Manzanilla, we spent a morning exploring the cavernous mangrove estuary, expecting Pigmies with poison darts to emerge at every turn!
    At this stage of our journey we are starting to  meet up with former cruisers from years before. We were delighted to find our first buddy boat friends, John and Nikki on Seychelles, from Juneau Alaska, sitting here in the anchorage. We celebrated with dinner on Chantey V as dolphins sported amiably in the bay. Soon we plan to lift anchor and push north to La Cruz, and Puerto Vallarta.

Nikki and John on Seychelles

    A pit stop in lovely Bahia Chamela allowed us a few hours respite before carrying on with a blustery overnighter. We swam ashore and ordered the specialty of the house from the local palapa on the beach, BBQ fish (head on)smoked in spicy sauce. Lots of bones but tasty, until the flies drove us out! Too lazy to swim back we hired a fisherman to take us back to the boat in his panga. After a bumpy night at sea we deposited ourselves at the dock at La Cruz marina for a few creature comforts,  showers, laundry, and propane, and were good to go.

     La Cruz and Puerto Vallarta
   The sleepy village of La Cruz is a sailor's Mecca with it's choice of a modern, full-facility marina and a scenic anchorage next door. Boats often meet up here going south, to cross for the Puddle Jump, north to the Sea of Cortez, or spend time in Puerto Vallarta. Eventually everyone ends up in La Cruz. And no wonder. The music scene here is wonderful, especially at our favourite little haunt, Philo's Place. The Sunday mercado is also a great way to spend a leisurely afternoon sampling the local wares and just enjoying the vibe. Of course there's always a trip to the big city, Puerto Vallarta, where we took a walk down memory lane and revisited old Marina Puerto Vallarta and the Westin, where we tied the knot on our travels southbound. We also met up with former cruiser pals from years past, Liz and Chris on SV Espiritu, musicians extraordinaire, and planned a rousing music session on Chantey V.

Scene of the crime

Mercado, La Cruz

Jam session with Chris and Liz