Isla Carmen, Loreto, Puerto Escondido

 

Bill and Michelle, SV Adagio 

A lumpy overnighter was in store as we crossed the Sea of Cortez to Isla Carmen. The brilliant spectacle of the burnt umber desert mountains, against the azure blue sea over white sand, glowed around us as we entered the bay. Anchored nearby were our new friends Bill and Michelle on power vessel Adagio. They invited us to go snorkeling on an old 120 ft. submerged wreck. We watched in awe as scores of multi-coloured fish darted in and out of the bones of the shipwreck. Afterwards we went ashore to check out an abandoned salt flats and processing camp. The crumbling buildings stood sentinel over another time; a rusted out child's wagon and bulldozer, a half-caved in medical office. Bill and Michelle invited us back to Adagio later for a yummy prawn supper with poblano sauce. The end of a perfect day on the sea. Off to Puerto Escondido in the morning, we shall miss our new-found companions.....till we meet again, Fair Winds!

Isla Carmen

     Puerto Escondido is a hurricane hole so many cruisers hang out here as they sail the Sea of Cortez. This is prime cruising ground with the painted desert cliffs towering above clear blue-green waters and pink and white sand. Tied to the mooring ball behind us was SV Full and Bye from Victoria, BC. We spent several days with old cruiser pals Anne and Dick touring the darling village of Loreto and catching up on past voyages, before making our way towards La Paz. The white slip of crescent beach of Bahia San Francisco awaited us. A sublime place where time stands still against the crimson hills and lapping waters.

Dick and Anne, SV Full and Bye
                                                        

Loreto street view

Loreto mission

Steinbeck's Canyon

San Francisco Bay

          "A painted cup of crimson dew,
            holds a flower just for you,
            Scarlett, pink and orange, too,
            Evening hides them from our view."

Mazatlan to Copper Canyon

Kelly and I at Plazuela Machado

    The entrance to the marina was the usual hair-raising spectacle with the dredging machine dominating the centre of the channel and waves crashing over the rocks on either side. But once through we settled in comfortably at the El Cid Marina to await our guest Kelly from Victoria. Unfortunately, it was almost Semana Santa, the biggest holiday season of the year, and the party atmosphere had already begun with the pounding beat of Mexican rap music from dawn til dusk.


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     Once known as the Jewel of the Pacific the old town of Mazatlan has been beautifully restored. It was good to revisit the Plazuela Machado and sit amidst the leafy courtyard once again. Kelly and I checked out some of the enchanting artisan galleries while Daragh had the pulpit reconfigured to accommodate our slip back home in Victoria. We trekked the five miles of endless beach along the Malecon and stopped for refreshments at the old Sheik Hotel, and the Sky Bar atop the retro Hotel Kensington with a spectacular view of the entire city.

A very Porky Pig!

Topolobampo and Copper Canyon

     An unexpected delight was the trip to Topolobampo and the Copper Canyon. The name sounds like something right out of Dr. Seus! We made the crossing from Mazatlan in a record time of 32 hours at 6.9 knots due to a one knot current boost and flat seas on route. The entrance is a long wide channel loaded with shallows, but was well-marked and relatively easy to navigate into well-kept and  very welcoming Palmira Marina.

Topolobampo

     We met Michelle and Bill on Adagio at the dock and we made up a nice foursome for our trip next morning to the Copper Canyon via the Chiahuahua Railway, affectionately known as El Chepe'. This hidden treasure is actually one of the world's great railway journeys with 37 bridges and 86 tunnels covering 653km and some of the most amazing mountain vistas anywhere, through the Sierra Madre.

The Raramuri selling basketry

El Chepe'

      El Chepe' has comfortable seating, air conditioning, and even a nice dining car. But the highlight is hanging out of the boxcars between the cars to enjoy the magical view with the wind in your face!
      We departed first of all at the rather ramshackle but spotlessly clean frontier town of Creel, home to Mexican cowboys and the Raramuri. These are the aboriginal people of Chiahuahua who often live in tiny huts or caves cut into the canyon. They dress in brilliantly coloured skirts and scarves, have their own language and quietly sell handmade basketry and wares to the tourists.

      The next day we rode a coach back to the Posada Mirador. The hotel is perched precariously on the edge of the immense canyon itself. Below you can see the tiny native huts and caves peppered around the canyon walls, like peering into the past. We took a gondola ride across the canyon. I was shocked to see a little urchin of a girl scamper up the rocks and jump between the massive boulders! It was of course, her 'back yard' but it was still very disturbing to observe, and hard to comprehend this way of life.

      The most impressive zip line in North America is also possibly right here plunging across the canyon ravines. After two days of hiking the trails and lounging on the deck mesmerized by the scenery, we prepared to take our leave back to the Divisadero train station. However, a group of protesters had blocked the railway to Creel due to some labour dispute. After a few uncertain hours a train was re-routed to take us for the long ride back to Los Mochis and Topolobampo, where we plan to cross the Sea of Cortez for Loreto.

 
 

La Cruz to Mazatlan

 

Mazatlan sunset

Touring Sayulita with Barb

Time is ticking away at La Cruz as we attend to the more common theme these days of boat repairs at sea. Currently we have a leak in the fuel injection pump which lost four quarts on the trip in to La Cruz in just 12 hours. Turns out it needs replacing which will keep us at dock for a spell longer than planned. We took the opportunity to visit Jos and Barb in nearby Sayulita. This darling surfer town is very popular with the gringos. A picturesque beach with artsy shops and coffee bars is a welcome change from the somewhat all-inclusive perfections of P.V. While we were there a mini windstorm blew up and sent sunbathers and merchants scurrying for cover.

Tomiko in the engine room

   At last the engine work rebuild is complete thanks to the speedy handiwork of Steve and Tomiko, and Mazatlan awaits. We will spend a week or two there with our friend Kelly, and raise a glass for the Emerald Isle on Paddy's Day!

Local Heroes; Simon Bolivar, Che Guevara and Bob Marley

                                     

"The monastery bells are softly ringing,
As twilight ends the long and sultry day,
In fragrant homes the village girls are singing,
Along the tranquil blue (Banderas) Bay."

Tenacatita Bay to La Cruz

From Los Hadas we traveled up the coast to the tranquil bay of Tenacatita, a great hang out for sailors chilling out before the return trip north at the end of the season to put their boats up. The surf here is quite daunting to go ashore, but worth the risk of getting pooped (swamped), to spend the day on the golden sand and clear waters. After doing our provisioning in the nearby mostly Gringo town of La Manzanilla, we spent a morning exploring the cavernous mangrove estuary, expecting Pigmies with poison darts to emerge at every turn!
    At this stage of our journey we are starting to  meet up with former cruisers from years before. We were delighted to find our first buddy boat friends, John and Nikki on Seychelles, from Juneau Alaska, sitting here in the anchorage. We celebrated with dinner on Chantey V as dolphins sported amiably in the bay. Soon we plan to lift anchor and push north to La Cruz, and Puerto Vallarta.

Nikki and John on Seychelles

    A pit stop in lovely Bahia Chamela allowed us a few hours respite before carrying on with a blustery overnighter. We swam ashore and ordered the specialty of the house from the local palapa on the beach, BBQ fish (head on)smoked in spicy sauce. Lots of bones but tasty, until the flies drove us out! Too lazy to swim back we hired a fisherman to take us back to the boat in his panga. After a bumpy night at sea we deposited ourselves at the dock at La Cruz marina for a few creature comforts,  showers, laundry, and propane, and were good to go.

     La Cruz and Puerto Vallarta
   The sleepy village of La Cruz is a sailor's Mecca with it's choice of a modern, full-facility marina and a scenic anchorage next door. Boats often meet up here going south, to cross for the Puddle Jump, north to the Sea of Cortez, or spend time in Puerto Vallarta. Eventually everyone ends up in La Cruz. And no wonder. The music scene here is wonderful, especially at our favourite little haunt, Philo's Place. The Sunday mercado is also a great way to spend a leisurely afternoon sampling the local wares and just enjoying the vibe. Of course there's always a trip to the big city, Puerto Vallarta, where we took a walk down memory lane and revisited old Marina Puerto Vallarta and the Westin, where we tied the knot on our travels southbound. We also met up with former cruiser pals from years past, Liz and Chris on SV Espiritu, musicians extraordinaire, and planned a rousing music session on Chantey V.

Scene of the crime

Mercado, La Cruz

Jam session with Chris and Liz

Acapulco to Zihuatanejo, and Las Hadas

 

Zihuatanejo beach

As we bob along up the coastline it brings back memories of all of the fine places and people we had the pleasure of meeting and are now revisiting on the homeward trek. One reflects on the kindness of strangers, and in particular, the warmth and hospitality of the Mexican people. We are making good time now, two double-overnighters to Acapulco and on to Zeetown, our favourite Mexican port of call. We returned to this idyllic harbour exactly four and a half years to the day that we arrived on our way southbound. The placid bay and bustling community were just as we has left them.

    In the bay we revisited Kirk on SV Freedom Kirkland, whom we had met on our way down so many years before. On the morning net he invited fellow cruisers to attend his up and coming wedding the following afternoon! It was a halcyon day on the beach when he and his lovely bride Charlene tied the knot, (no pun intended) which we followed with a sumptuous dinner at Coconuts.

Kirk and Charlene wedding bells!

 

Spanish coffee at Coconuts

Back on Chantey V, with deadlines to meet, we reluctantly pushed off for Las Hadas in hopes of reuniting with other sailor friends from yesteryear and sharing the joys, trials and tribulations of our travels.

Joel & Daraghs new panels!

Los Hadas Resort and anchorage

Arrival at Barra de Navidad Lagoon

     Las Hadas resort was as impressive as remembered with it's imposing white turrets and clear pools, but the price tag had gone up! What used to be a small charge for keeping your dingy at the dingy dock and buying drinks, has now escalated into two full day passes for use of all the facilities during high season. In dire need of a shower and the pool beckoning we reluctantly dug deep into our pockets and paid up.  It truly is a special place, but the new policy may put a chill on the visits from cruising community.
    The following we day set sail for Barra de Navidad, dreaming of a morning visit from the French Baker with fresh croissants from his jaunty panga.
 

Breakfast from the French Baker!

          Look to this day for it is life!
          In its' brief course lie all the realities and truths of your existence,
          The bliss of growth, the glory of action, the splendour of achievement,
          are but experiences of a time,
          For yesterday is but a dream,
          And tomorrow a vision of hope,
          But today well-lived makes yesterday a dream of happiness,
          and every tomorrow a vision of hope,
          Look well therefore to this day!

          Kalidasa